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Friday 6 January 2012

its finished....

The sea is like a lake tonight. Its hard to see the difference between to sea and sky. Its just so beautiful and peaceful. I have spent the day packing away our Darnley life and cleaning the house and now we are ready to head home. Its a strange feeling. Tomorrow we are going to be confronted by the busyness of the world away from here.....Are we ready???



The past 5 months away from home now seem like a lifetime. Not in a bad way. It just feels like this is our reality and our Toowoomba life, something else. Its hard to connect the two. Living here in this beautiful place has been really special. I love waking up to the sea every morning. Having my trip to work take 30 seconds is pretty awesome. I have loved working alongside Lucy, Lizzie, Jermaine and Abba. They have taught Rob and I a new language and heaps of cultural stuff about their way of life. Their connection with their people is very precious. Everyone is connected in some way, and whilst we are not part of that, its a great thing to see, especially as our busy impersonal world often does not allow for this.




We have been privileged  to be part  of some significant ceremonies, a tombstone opening, a funeral, and on New Years Day, a group of dancers and singers went from village to village to dance and sing. The head of each family spoke, thanking the dancers and encouraging good things for 2012. We were part of this as they stopped at the clinic on the way and we were able to follow as they wound their way through the villages. The singing sounds and the rhythm of the local drum was just fantastic. 


I Have learned so many things here. From a clinical point of view I have rekindled skills I haven't used for years and learned heaps of new ones too! For much of the early weeks I felt like a deer in the headlights as it all seemed foreign but now I can spot scabies at 40 paces, take blood like a pathologist and immunise reluctant children! Its a satisfying type of nursing in some respects as the treatable things mean a person comes in with a problem which you can fix for them. I love that. But the other side is the frustration of the chronic disease that plague our Indigenous Australians: Diabetes, Renal failure and Rheumatic Heart Disease. These diseases are a huge burdon on this culture and sadly, our current care does not seem to make any difference. I have no answers. It needs to be a combination of local culture change, economic  and financial change..... who knows.


We have been so lucky to have been able to share this life with Robs parents and my sister, when they visited. It will be so hard to really describe this at home so its great they could come and see things for themselves, and they lifted out spirits, and bought wine and chocolate!! This afternoon as I finished the packing, I could hear a child crying next door at the clinic and suddenly felt a huge weight lift as I realised, I have handed over. Our replacement is here. The responsibility no longer rests with us. Its a good feeling, and as much as I have loved all the challenges the work here has presented, it has been a burden 24/7 to consider that we are the front line for this community and their health care needs.
Tomorrow morning we will board our little plane and head south. Over the beautiful turquoise ocean with the coral reef lacing its way through the waters. Torres Strait has been just incredible. I wonder just how long we will be ably to stay away! Yawo Darnley and your people. Thank you for giving us such an incredible adventure. You will remain in our hearts forever

Monday 2 January 2012

Firsts and Lasts - final blog by Rob

A week of First and Lasts.  By Rob

There is an irony, a circular completeness that oozes to mind when I reflect on the last 5 months with family here in the Torres. That this is the First week of the new year (2012) signifying a new beginning, a new life, a new year; and that it is also our family’s last week here in Darnley, seems somehow fitting.  The same old Timmings, returning home (what ever that may mean) yet as much as this is an ending, it is also a beginning for that same old Timmings family.  You see, the Torres changes people.

We cant come here to this place, and leave untouched.  We cant go ‘home’ and perceive it the way we have ever perceived it before.  The tasks that Jo and I have had to do in this world, are so far from that with which we previously identified.  Our kids have had to deal with traumas of this community that they would never have been exposed to at home.  They have equally enjoyed privileges that none of their friends have had.  Privilege packaged in unusual ways.  To attend Tomb stone opening ceremonies, funerals, and be absorbed into culture and language like none other on earth, is a blessing that perhaps they will never fully realize.

For Amy to attend school here, and learn fluent Creole, to learn old language, and dance. To sing Erubian folk tunes on an island that she would never have known existed, is monumental and life changing.  For her to see how her island friends live, and are disciplined, and are “grown up” by women of the village rather than one sole mother, is an eye opener that no amount of “cultural preparation” program could have imparted.

Experiences for Ben are also unique.  He has been taken fishing for Mackerel, reef fish and Crayfish by uncles who taught him their ways of the sea and the reef.  He has learned from elders about the spiritual world that exists in this place.  He has marveled at marine life, shells, turtles and a virtual smorgasbord that is just 100 m from where I type this blog.  These experience have changed him too.  He has an understanding of ecology and biology the likes of which no science professor will be capable of articulating.

Locals here have taken my kids in and not just shared knowledge but imparted wisdom.  I reflect on what damage I may have done to my kids education by taking away from school & friends and bringing them to this place, and in my reflection I see not destruction, but fortification to their lives, that a 100 years of school could not have achieved.

For my Wife Jo, a Blue Nurse (District nurse) with a passion for wound care, and discharge facilitation, I have seen her transform into a colleague that I would choose to work with not be placed with by default as my wife.  We make such an amazing team.  I love my trauma, and acute care, but she has learned my ropes, and the balance of knowledge has now well and truly tipped in her favor, as her scope of practice encroaches on mine.  I am immensely proud of her.  She is now so much more than the other nurse at Darnley.

Where I have grown is in experience and waist.  The text knowledge I have, being a Rural and Remote nurse Educator, is so inadequate as a functioning RAN.  This job has to be lived to be understood.  To manage Scabies, Rheumatic Heart Disease, and Diabetes from a learned course of study, is nothing in comparison to doing it.  The dynamic of lack of compliance with appointments, the clock, the medication regimen, the diet, the attitude towards healthy lifestyle is much more that half the battle when nursing these people.  For the most part the blogs have all been positive, biased towards the wonderfulness of this place and this nursing.  But the truth is not all rosy.  You know that.  You have seen the footage of indigenous communities on the TV, you have listened to the negative speak of family , friends and colleagues about the problems in these types of communities.  You have probably seen that amazing movie “Samson and Delilah”.  You have formed your own opinions of the ‘bad’ stuff that goes on.  Places where paradise is a thin veneer on a rotten foundation.  Well this place in some respects is no different.  On the balance, it is wonderful.  But the pendulum swings in any community, and there have been days where we have felt fearful for our safety, and fearful for the wellbeing of our kids.  Some times when a 9 year old girl asks questions best coming from another adult, you wonder what the hell possessed me to subject my daughter to this place.   But it is life, and its is cold and dark and undesirable sometimes, and for our kids, who have both seen the good and the bad, sadly they have also seen some of the ugly.

But lets not dwell on that now.  A host of visitors have come and gone in the time that Jo and I have been here.  We were so blessed to have been visited by My parents, and Ben’s mate LLachy the Llama.  Jo’s Sister Louise arrived, and saw a snippet of the culture yesterday when an island family maintained their annual New Years Day tradition of dancing for each house hold.  We were blessed by the dancers who came to the clinic and did a couple of traditional dances.  Local women have been popping by the clinic to present Joanne with hand made items as gifts.  So much generosity for those who have so little, and that is just one of the beautiful things we love and will miss about this place.  Men present me with fish; a portion of their catch, and with a contemptuous grin that suggests “Here mate, You suck at fishing, I feel bad for your family, you better have this coral trout so they don’t starve”,  they hand me some of the most amazing seafood I have eaten. These are generous men and I am honored and humbled by them.

I have loved sharing my stories and experiences on this blog.  The cathartic effect of writing is a relaxation for me.  To take a crap day, and write positively about it has been a training exercise in keeping my glass half full.  And that is what we need to do here.

When we recluse back to our home in Toowoomba, and morph back into our old jobs, our old ways will creep back.  Old ways where we find it easy to feel sorry for ourselves for not being able to get the right brand of bread, or something equally as trivial.  But I sincerely hope that if anything we have learned that there will always be others worse off.  And that by virtue of a genetic lottery, I, for the most part, am privileged beyond anything that I could have ever have imagined when I compare myself with what I have seen here.

I have learned we have to thank each other for the little things.  We need to make each other feel special, because we are.  If someone is a little bit late, that is just not a big deal.  I have learned that a clock is an unnecessary, stress machine, that we dwell on too much.  I hope that when I am back in Toowoomba, I am not ruled by the clock.  I hope to be slow to answer, slow to anger, and slow to condemn.  I hope that my children are not consumed with consumerism.  I hope they learn to value what they have, and that they protect what is dear to them.

I am so happy to be going home.  But so nervous about the culture shock of going home.  But blessed that I will have my people there to talk it out with.  Close up the house, put on ilan music, cook some fish and sop sop, yabber away in Creole, and reminisce about being back in paradise.

For the last time as a family on Darnley (Erub) I say Yawo!!!

Sunday 1 January 2012

Happy New Year 2012 from Darnley Island by Louise Cadden (Jo's sister)

Arrived on Darnely Island on 27 December 2011 and what a great journey.  I loved travelling in the 8 seater plane.  It was so much fun and the view was fantastic all the way.  The pilot told "me" how to open my door in an emergency.  After settling in himself and pressing a few switches he continued the safety briefing with "oh by the way there is a fire extinguisher under his seat and a life jacket under my seat".

First we landed on Yorke Island which is a sand island and very beautiful from the plane.  Then 10 minutes later landed on Darnley Island to be met by the Timmings picking me up in the ambulance.  Lovely to see them all again.

The weather has been very kind, being very mild and pleasant.  We've had a couple of storms too.  Not a lot to do here.  We have been to the beaches for swimming and snorkelling.  The sea has been too rough to snorkel until last night (1 Jan) so up until then we have swam.

New Years Eve was quite non eventful.  We had a lazy day and were in bed before midnight.  On New Years day in the late afternoon we enjoyed island dancing.  They come by each house and then you follow them to the next house and then along to the end.  Usually at the last house there is a feast shared by all.  A turtle is prepared and cooked underground.  It was all a bit vague about what was happening in regards to the feast.  The dancing was great and the singing was loud and beautiful to listen to.  All the islanders wore very bright colours and were all enjoying themselves.  There was no feast so we had our own feast of spagetti bolonaise which was delicious.

Today we finally did some snorkelling and it was very clear with great visability.  We saw coral of all sorts, shapes, sizes and colours.  There were many schools of brightly coloured fish and sardines.  Lots of clams  that were bright blue, purple and green.  Also there are very bright starfish.  We had a picnic on the beach. Lovely and relaxing.

It has been a lovely relaxing time away and wonderful to see a remote part of Australia.  Here are a few photos.

Louise arriving.


At the jetty trying to find mobile range - no luck.


Picnic at Palm Beach - my favourite beach.

Tuesday 27 December 2011

Christmas on Darnley Island

Its a balmy Tuesday night, after Christmas. We are sitting on the verandah out the front of the house, as the sun sets over the sea. The sea is like glass and just over an hour ago we were snorkeling in it. We have a few tea light candles burning in clam shells and a mozzie coil burning as malaria and dengue are making their way here from PNG. Its still, and quiet and we know we love it.....10 days to go before we head home....



Christmas Day was a quiet affair with the four of us. We had an evening meal of turkey and sop sop, a traditional dish made with sweet potato and pumpkin all cooked in coconut cream ( Jenny Craig would love it!!!) I had been very convincing with the kids about not getting much for Christmas so they were surprised and happy when they opened their presents. Robert made me some shortbread and attached a pharmacy label to the box he put it in prescribing "one daily". A lovely thoughtful and yummy gift. We played some cards and watched a movie together. Although I missed family at home, it was lovely to be the four of us, especially as our time here draws to a close and it all gets busy when we head home. I want to savour these times together and make the most of them.


The island has been quiet too with just a couple of calls each day for minor things. We have been out swimming at least once a day and done some fishing as well on the jetty. I have decided that fishing is not about catching fish but enjoying the water and watching other people! There is always some activity at the jetty and one evening someone had filleted their fish on the jetty which encouraged these three!!



So with just a short time left, and some anxiety about fitting back into the world we left, Rob and I both feel like we need to "suck it all in", absorb as much of Darnley as we can. It has been so much more than I could have imagined. I have experienced emotions here that I have not before. I have been so saddened and angry by some of the neglect I have seen, particularly towards children. I have been furious by the culture of bullying here, particularly in the schools that just seems to be OK. I have been really frightened for our safety a couple of times....But the overall, parting feelings, are of amazement at this world, thankfulness at the genorosity of some of the locals, and a connection to a culture that I hope we will be able to come back to one day. I can't say a culture to belong to, as I don't think this is possible as an outsider. But a culture that has touched both our hearts and one that will stay with us.

 

Friday 16 December 2011

The Big Torres Pond - by Robert Timmings


With my snorkel and mask,
I race to the waist,
with a lunge and a plunge
I am swilled but so thrilled
at the plight that I sight,
as I gaze and amaze
and I look in a nook
at the creatures and features
In the big Torres pond


My eyes seem surprised
I'm a lout watching trout.
Its immoral to touch coral
but my glove it does love,
To touch a fish and I wish,
that I should if I could,
have some gills, oh the thrills.
Floating slack, so relaxed
In the big Torres pond.


A turtle sprints, and he hints,
He's unfazed, in a daze.
Giant clams, big as a man.
Blue sting ray, out for the day
Fish abound, all around.
Flashes of light, so I might
Get excited or frighted
of a shark in the dark
In the big Torres pond.


Cray fish, with a death wish
Anenomies with no enemies
Fish are stripey, some mighty
All slick, swim so quick
Run in fear, from Ben's spear
As he lunges and plunges
To the deep, just to reap
Custaceans's fate, becomes our full plate
From the Torres pond.


New baby.......

I have decided that being a RAN is a bit like having a new baby. You have disturbed sleep from call out at all hours of the night, lots of people give you advice on how they think you should be doing things, and just when you think you have a handle on things, something new comes along and you have to learn a whole new set of challenges.

One of the island Patriarchs returned from Cairns on Tuesday, after a month away having surgery on his leg ulcers. The most worrying one was removed and the skin graft has taken and is healing well. But the large ulcer on the front of his leg was really moist and very sloughy when I first saw it Tuesday afternoon. After consultation with the oncall Dr, he decided we would try some topical antibiotics as the surrounding skin looked healthy. However yesterday, things had deteriorated. This is a man who has been flown off numerous times for cellulitis. So Rob, put in a drip and we are on a regime of antibiotics via the drip every 6 hours for the next 48 hours. That’s OK. Our AO flew out yesterday for a weeks holiday and so we are seeing patients and doing the medicare forms, finding and filing charts and answering phone. That’s OK. We have 2 health workers here to help. One is 26 weeks pregnant and spends more time at home than here and her hours are fairly random. That’s OK……Then today, we discover our other health worker is a close contact for a contagious disease and needs to spend the next 5 days at home, on antibiotics herself, until she is no longer contagious. Its just about now I am feeling a little like its not OK. So its Rob and I and our random health worker who is a trainee, and doesn’t drive! We have no manager, no administrative support and the ambulance that the council are supposed to look after is still sitting out the front of the clinic where it stopped over a week ago, and will not restart. I have to take a deep breath in, and then let a deep breath out, and remind myself that Dan Murphys.com are only a phonecall and a barge delivery away, and that my supplies have not yet run dry.

Livin the dream, wild ride that it is :)   Yawo!!

Sunday 11 December 2011

So many photos!

I really must blog more often. This past week has been huge and so when I looked through all the pictures to complement the past week, it was really difficult. So for all of you that love the photos, this one is for you!


On Monday, I headed off to Thursday Island for a medical appointment, as you do here, to see specialists. It probably could have waited until I cam home but the opportunity to see TI was very enticing as well as the chance to see Sam and Glenis off in TI. Travel here is quite tricky and as there were no flights on Monday on the usual service, I was advised to book on Strait up. This service is designed for Queensland Health staff to travel within the district for work purposes. So my flight left 10 mins after Sam and Glenis, but there was only me on the plane! When I got on, our visiting midwife got off the plane for a couple of days on Darnley. It had been a stormy morning and she advised I didn't seat where she had sat as the plane leaked and she had got quite wet! As it was just the pilot and I, I had the choice of seats, I felt a bit like the queens, and sure enough, once we were airborne and into the storms, the roof sank in slightly and the dripping recommenced! Still, I felt like the Queen in my private plane, and settled back to enjoy the flight.


I had a good few hours in Thursday Island, visited all the little shops, (6 of them!) saw the specialist and then joined Sam and Glenis on the ferry back to Horn Island where we were to get our flights, theirs south to Cairns and mine north, back to Darnley. It was so good having Sam and Glenis visit. The two weeks with them flew past and happy hour was very happy with lots of laughs, some sunset watching and a couple of drinks. As we were sitting at the airport. Glenis asked me if I wished I was going with them, home. And as I replied, "No", I realised that I really am not quite ready yet. As much as I am looking forward to going home, my time in the Torres is not done yet.
 We said our farewells, I boarded my little plane, my private plane again(!!) and sat glued to the window for the 60 minute trip back to Darnley. The view was just so amazing after the storms had cleared away. the air was clear and the ocean such beautiful shades of blues and greens, and assortments of island popping up every now and then, all shapes and sizes.....


Clinically this week, we were steady but not busy. We had the visiting midwife and a GP for a few days. Rob and I continue to do the detective work with a strain of Pertussis (whooping cough) that has been a problem for the past couple of months. Families have such close contact here and with the incubation period of 3 weeks, we just think we are on top of it, and then discover another case of two. Its very interesting working out who will be at risk and then immunising and treating those who are infected or contacts. The ambulance finally died this week, we had to do a push start from a patients house, it was good they lived on a hill and we were facing the right direction!!! We do have another car which will be good for emergencies. On Yorke Island, when the car breaks down, they have resorted to collecting patients in a wheelbarrow! Fortunately, its flat there!!
On Friday, Bens friend Laughlan arrived from Toowoomba for a weeks stay. An hour after he landed, he and Ben were taken out cray diving, and came back with some success and huge smiles!


Yesterday, we were taken over to Stephen and Nepean Islands by uncle Pau. Stephen Island has a population of about 50 and is a very pretty island. Its about 60 minutes from here by speed boat ( dingy, as all boats are called here) It was a great trip across and at times we could see huge coral bombies under the boat as we sped along. We had about an hour to look around Stephen Island. it has the cutest church I have ever seen!


We went to one of the locals homes which was right on the water, literally. I am sure the high tide came up around the stumps of the home! He had a pet turtle, as many do here. They keep them for a while and then release them back into the ocean. They are such beautiful animals, the colours on their shells are so vivid!

 Another thing that Stephen Island is well known for are the Helmet shells. They live in pairs on the reef / sand, and the locals eat the meat. They can grow to an amazing size and are just another example of the incredible diversity of life here. Ben and Laughlan found these couple on the beach lodged in a tree but we believed they were put there by someone so we replaced them.


Our next stop off was Nepean Island. I am not sure of its size but we circled it in the dingy before hopping off on the beach, and it took about 5 mins to do so. No one lives on Nepean but it is a popular fishing and camping spot for the local islanders. The white sand was pristine with turtle tracks running everywhere. We snorkled for a while and saw a couple of big bull rays. Ben and I collected a few shells on the beach and I found a HUGE sand dollar shell. Ben and Laughlan had the traditional sand fight, as you do, and all up, it was very relaxing to get away for a few hours


Today, we decided to have a sun free day. Realising we are only 2 weeks away from Christmas, we decided to make our own tree. Its amazing how a few different minds, some cardboard, glue and Christmas carols playing in the background, can result in a Christmas tree. It was a lot of fun and now we all feel like its actually Christmas. I guess when you don't have the constant media and shops bombarding the Christmas message, you can loose track of time. Its nice though, Christmas this year will be what we make it, just the four of us. Perhaps we will have more time this year to reflect on why we celebrate, and also the importance of family.... Yawo for now!!