Friday was a busy day. We had a steady stream of patients and then a little one that was unwell and needed to be flown out for treatment at TI Hospital. One of the frustrations here is communication. So you ring the airport in TI and see if there are any seats available on incoming planes. They give you an approxinmate arrival time. You drive out to the airport (about 15 mins away ) and wait on the runway. Depending on what time the ferry arrives in TI, depends on when the planes can leave, as well as the weather. So we sat on the run way and waited, and waited, and then a plane arrived but would not take our patient as he was not going back to TI straight away. So we waited another half and hour and then decided to drive back to the clinic to check on what was happening. Of course when we got back here, we heard the plane, so took off again and finally got our patient away. In an emergency, they can fly in a helicopter but as it was raining and foggy on Friday they were reluctant to do this.
Friday was also the day that the tombstone opening was on. We closed the clinic early in anticipation and at about 3pm we headed up the road to where the family were holding the ceremony. People are buried at home here, in front or back yards. I guess houses not do change hands very often and stay in families for generations, so this is ok. The gentleman had died 3 years ago and yesterday was the day to unveil the tombstone on is grave and hold a big party to thank everyone who had supported them during their time of grieving. The initial ceremony is like a church service, but a very colourful one. Each family seem to have their own fabric that their island dresses are made of, almost like the Scottish tartan signifies a clan. The tombstone is surrounded by a hut made of bamboo and decorated with colorful fabric and gifts for the family.
The ceremony is conducted by a minister and remembers the deceased while traditional hymns are sung accompanied by the island drums ( warup ). Its very moving. The sound of the music and the colours of all the clothes were really beautiful and we felt very privileged to be a part of it all
After the ceremony, we were all invited to return for the feasting at 7pm. Slowly the villagers dispersed back up the road, to return in a couple of hours.
We came home and relaxed, reflecting on what we had seen. The richness of the culture and how it differs from what we do at home. Then it was time to return for the feast.
The houses here are simple fibro blocks. Many are run down and the salty, humid area causes fast deterioration. When we returned to the home of the family hosting the feast, the back area had been transformed with bamboo, palm leaves and frangi pani flowers to make an amazing outdoor seating area and a dancing arena. We were invited to sit at a table where we listened to a traditional grace sung and accompanied by drum before the feasting began. Three huge tables were laden with an amazing assortment of food, all sorts of meat including turtle and Dugong, traditional vegetables cooked in coconut milk (sop sop) rice covered in coconut cream, heaps of salads…..it was just an amazing sight. Remember, there are no restaurants here to help with catering, it was all made by family member. So we feasted, and still the tables were full. Ben asked if he could have seconds and was invited to keep going back for thirty extra helpings….The food was really delicious but I found the turtle meat to have an unusal flavour, perhaps an acquired taste……or did I just feel uncomfortable eating it??
At about 9pm, we headed outside to where the dancing area had been set up. There were to be dancers from Darnley Island as well as neighbouring Murray Island. It was relaxing sitting and chatting and the anticipation of watching the local dancing built as we waited…..and waited. At 10pm, the dancing started. Loud singing ad drums beating and dancers adorned with head dresses and skirts made from palm leaves. There was nothing graceful about it. It was fierce and warrior like and just amazing. The dancers were all male and they were proud and precise in their movements. Every now and then, some of the women from the crowd would walk amongst them and sprinkle them with powder. I think it was to show their appreciation. Its so hard to describe it all, and the photos just do not do it justice as it was so fast. It will be something we will never forget. At 1130pm, we decided to head home as we were all weary and Rob and I were on call last night and today. The dancing continued until 7am this morning!! Needless to say, it was a very quiet island today, we had a couple of call outs, and sadly a dog to put down as it was unwell with a large tumour on its neck……Island life is never dull!!
One of the local fishermen invited Ben and Amy out I his dingy for a ride today. Off they headed, and returned about 45mins later with this!!! Bens first Fish over 5 kg. This 8.3KG Spanish Mackerel, was landed in 10 mins. Awesome Catch Ben!!
Its been a fun packed 24 hours. We have had a delicious meal of mackerel for dinner, a lovely chat with my sister Louise, and now, its time for sleep. Darnley, please sleep peacefully tonight…..I need some sleep.
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